Vineyards and Winemaking
Thorn Ridge Vineyard has the distinction of being one of the least
hospitable vineyard sites I have ever visited. Ted Klopp farms this
desolate outpost located about five miles southwest of Sebastopol
on the northern edge of the Petaluma Gap. The soils are low-vigor
silt and the very limited water supply almost qualifies Thorn Ridge
as a dry-farmed vineyard. Thorn Ridge Vineyard is pummeled by cold
air and fog rushing through the lowest point in California's Coast
Range, naturally limiting yields and ensuring extended hang times.
The vintage of 2002 was uncharacteristically marked by minor heat
waves during every month of the growing season, followed by weekly
temperature spikes during harvest. Rain during flowering kept yields
low, which combined with the heat fluctuations to produce exceptionally
ripe grapes.
The grapes were simply destemmed with approximately 25% retained
as whole clusters, then left to soak prior to the start of a native
fermentation. Part way through, a small amount of a commercial yeast
strain was introduced to ensure completion of the process. The must
was pressed after spending 34 days in vat. The wine underwent malolactic
fermentation and sixteen months of aging in new and one-year-old
French oak barrels from the coopers Francois Freres, Dargaud &
Jaegle, Cadus, Remond and Marcel Cadet. The production was miniscule
at only 245 cases.
Tasting
Notes
A little riper than previous examples of Talisman's wine from this
property, the aroma opens with hints of blackberry, chocolate, and
mineral. The texture on the palate is round and voluptuous, redolent
of blackberry, blueberry, and cherry cheesecake. There are glimpses
of smoke and the wine finishes with a sensual texture and slightly
grippy, fine-grained tannins. This wine reacts favorably with a
bit of air and we don't hesitate to recommend a gentle decanting
prior to serving. |